Tanning methods – Chrome vs Vegetable

You may not think it's a big deal what kind of leather tanning process your favourite brands use - But let us try to explain why it should be! Most brands opt for the most economical (and unfortunately least eco-friendly) method of tanning: chrome tanning. It ain’t fancy, but at least it's cheap - Right!

So why is this tanning method so popular and how does it measure up to the more natural vegetable tanning process? Let's explain the difference between chrome tanning and the reasons why we use vegetable tanning methods for our leather!

Vegetable tannins, which are typically derived from ‘all natural materials’ such as bark, leaves, fruit, and roots, contain phenol - an aromatic organic compound essential for tanning leather. Vegetable tanning isn't the quickest option, but it's well worth the wait! You get a natural smell, earthy colour tones and a product that's eco-friendly and more durable. Plus, it’s safer to work with than the alternative.

The vegetable tanning process is like 'spa day' for animal hides - it starts off with a good prepping, hydration, and hair removal session.

The next step is to tan the hide. Historically this was simply done with a series of pits, each pit containing different concentrations of tannin. To get that super soft leather texture, you must make sure the tannins penetrate the pelts (skin) and finally, drying is done. The vegetable tanning process can take a few months to complete which is one of the main reasons why vegetable tanned leather comes at a price, making it less desirable for most high street brands. 

Once the hides are dry, we finish the process with oils, waxes, and sealants to give it that extra layer of protection. Plus, our special oil-based dye provides a signature finish which looks stunning!

Chrome tanning on the other hand employs chromium salts and has quickly become the most widely used process in leather tanning. It offers a significant advantage over vegetable tanning, as it is much faster, and the finished product can be produced at scale.

This vegetable tanning process, consisting of repeatedly soaking skins in natural tanning solutions is painstakingly slow and complex, and usually takes at minimum of one-two months to finish, requiring the supervision of skilled craftsmen. The forces industry had a huge problem - leather tanning was too slow and expensive. But then in 1858, they came up with an ingenious solution of using chemicals, mainly chromium, which allowed them to get the job done in just one day and for a much cheaper price!

Chrome tanning with chromium salts accounts for around 85% of global leather production (as per 2014). 95% of shoe leather, 70% of leather upholstery and almost 100% of clothing leather are chrome tanned.

Final verdict

Vegetable tanned leather takes longer to make and adds extra cost in the production process, but that's what makes it so unique! They are like a fine wine that get better with age. Chrome tanned products on the other hand, will start to show signs of wear and tear a lot sooner than you'd expect!

Vegetable tanned leather will have a darker colour tone, complimented with a natural smell and it’s a bit stiffer than chrome tanned leather, as it's been through traditional tanning techniques. 

Chrome tanned leather has its purpose for mass production and might be more vibrant, but we feel vegetable tanned leather is worth the extra investment. That's why we only use the highest quality vegetable tanned leather at Funkin Class Leather Co. ensuring our products will last the test of time.